Turnsole.



A. E. JOHNSON.

TURNSOLE.

APPLICATION men JAN. 5. 1912.

Patented Oct. 3, 1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

'lWz'imeaaes A. E. JOHNSON.

TURNSOLE. APPLICATION FILED JAN. 5,1912.

Patented 0%. 3, 1916.

2 swans-sneer 2 l l I l l J 74fmeaea pnrrnn sTnTns PATENT ora ion ALBERT E. JOHNSON, 015 BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOE T0 UNITED SHOE Specification of Letters Patent.

PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW TURNSOLE.

Application filed January 5, 1912. Serial No. 669,568;

Tovall whom z'tmay concern Be it known that I, ALBERT E. JOHNSON, a citizen of the'United States, residing at Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Turnsoles; and

I do hereby declare the following tobe a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled, in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. p

The present invention relates to improvements in outsoles for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes, and is more particularly applicable to shouldered outsoles which are used principally in the manufacture of turned shoes.

.It has been customary heretofore tomake a turn sole from a sole shaped blank by pro-- viding it with a marginal channel as in the making ofa welt insole and with a parallel shoulder outside of the channel. The channeling and shouldering operations are usually performed simultaneously by means of two knives fitted in one machine. shouldering knife is provided with a horizontal cutting portion which'splits the edge of the sole a predetermined distance from its grain side, and with a vertical cutting portion which forms the shoulder by separating the string from the body portion of the sole. The edge of the sole thus produced is thinner than the'body portion of the sole, within the shoulder cut, by the depth of the shoulder; This shoulder is provided to form a. striking surface for the curved needle used in sewing the upper to the sole which penetrates the body portion of the sole from the base of the shoulder to the channel. This narrow strip of'stock between the shoulder and the channel is called by those skilled in the art the between substance. In actual practice it is found that the depth of the shoulder has The Patented 0ct.3,1916.

provide a substantial edge thickness. As

the length of wear of a turned shoe isdetermmed by the thicknessof the marginal portion of the sole beneath the cuts, the extra thickness of the central portion of the body of the sole adds materially to the cost of the sole without increasing the wearing qualities of the shoe. This method of making.

turn soles is wasteful of the expensive leather stock.

The object of the present invention is to produce a novel turn sole, provided with a substantial striking shoulder, which is formed without using the excessively thick stock heretofore found necessary in the man.- ufacture of turn soles. I 1

With this object in view a feature of the present invention contemplates the manufacture of a turn sole consisting of a body portion having a marginal lip cut therefrom which is permanently folded over on the be tween substanceto form a substantial striking shoulder. By folding the lip over upon the between substance a shoulder is obtained which is twice as deep as the depth of penetration of the lip forming knife, or, stated 1n another way, twice as, deep as the material displaced from the marginal portion of the sole. A substantial striking shoulder is thus obtained without seriously affecting the wearing qualities of the marginal portion of the sole. 7

Broadly considered the lip may be formed in the body portion of the sole in any manner found desirable or expedient. In order, however, to preserve the thickness of the sole edge the lip preferably is cut in thesame face of the sole as the flap. This man ner of forming'the lip forms an important feature of applicants invention. A turn sole having a substantial striking shoulder and an unreduced sole edge is particularly valuable for use in the manufacture of light soled turned footwear, such, for instance, as slippers. The soles of such footwear are often made from, comparatively thin stock. Heretofore in the manufacture of this type of turned footwear, it has been necessary to employ an excessively thick body portion for the sole so that a proper striking shoulder of sufficient depth could be produced on the margin and suflicient material preserved to provide the desired thickness for the sole edge. The turn sole of the present invention is, provided with a Striking shoulder which is formed without substantial effect on .the thickness of the sole edge, and, therefore, by the use of the present invention, much thinner stock than heretofore used may be used for turn soles in slipper and similar work.

Another important feature of the invention contemplates the provision, in a turn sole provided with a marginal flap and a shoulder on one face, of a sheet of reinforcing material secured to the surface of said face and up the inner surface of the flap. As is well known to those skilled in the art, there is an important economic advantage in reinforcing leather parts used in the manufacture of leather shoes as by this means thin or poor stock, not ordinarily available, may advantageously be utilized. A turn sole provided with a marginal flap and a shoulder on one face, may be advantageously reinforced so as to permit the use of thin or poor stock. The sheet of reinforcing fabric is applied after the sole has been molded and dried, for, as will readily occur to those skilled in the art, if applied before the molding operation, the subsequent tempering of the reinforced sole would be objectionable. So far as the inventor is now aware, a turn sole reinforced to permit economy in the use of stock has never been produced heretofore, owing chiefly to the necessary wasteful methods of manufacture.

In the accompanying drawings illustrating the best form of the invention at present devised, Figure 1 is a plan of the channeled blank; Fig. 2 is a plan of the molded blank; Fig. 3 is a transverse section on line 3 of Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is a transverse section on line a of Fig. 2; Fig. 5 is an enlarged perspective showing the preferred manner in which the blank is channeled; Fig. 6 shows one way in which the channeled blank may be molded; and Fig. 7 shows one way in which the reinforcing material may be applied to the molded blank.

In the illustrated embodiment of the invention a sole shaped blank 1 from which the turn sole is made is first tempered and is then passed through a channeling machine such as illustrated and described in the United States Letters Patent to William 0. Meyer, No. 984,773, dated February 21, 1911, to which patent reference may be had for a full disclosure of the construction and operation of the machine. The channeling of the blank is performed by a channel knife 2, an edge knife 3, and the flap is set by a hammer 4. The edge knife 3 is designed to cut into theblank on a slight angle, eighteen degrees having been found effective, and is arranged in the machine so that its out is started on the flesh side of the blank just within its edge. The knives thus cut a flap 7 and a lip 6 both on the same face of the blank without reducing the edge of the sole and aid in feeding the sole through the machine. The edge molding and lip folding faces of the roll 9 are ar ranged to engage the feather of the sole and the lip to form a vertical striking shoulder from the material of the lip, and fold the upper portion of the lip permanently over upon the between substance 12. The roll 9 also supports the flap while it is set by the roll 8.

Referring now to Fig. 4 it is seen that the striking shoulder 13 is formed by folding over upon, and into contact with the between substance the material cut from the marginal portion of the sole. The depth of the striking shoulder 13 is substantially twice the depth of penetration of the lip forming knife or the material displaced from the marginal portion. By this construction the striking shoulder is formed without seriously weakening the marginal portion of the sole. As it is not necessary to employ an excessively thick body portion for the sole an important economy in the use of stock is effected.

In the manufacture of turn shoes the upper is drawn in against the shoulder of a channeled outsole. This shoulder must have a distinct depth for holding the upper, since the shoulder defines the outline of the base of the upper. Different kinds of material require different depths of shoulder, but the average depth for mens and womens work is about 3/32 of an inch. With firm, solid leather the minimum depth is about 1/16 of an inch, and with soft, fleshy leather the depth is about 1/8 of an inch. In making applicants turn sole, the lip is made a thickness of slightly over 1/32 of an inch, and when it is molded and set upon the between substance gives an average height of about 3/32 of an inch. For the purpose of convenience, a shoulder on soles for mens and womens work having an average depth of 3/32 of an inch and a minimum depth of about 1/16 of an inch, according to the leather used, will be termed a regular shoulder.

As is well known to those skilled in the art, the use of thin leather stock in the manufacture of insoles for boots and shoes has been made possible by reinforcement of the stock with a textile fabric. The economic advantage of reinforcing insoles is well known. Heretofore, owing to the wasteful method of manufacture, it was not possible to employ thin stock for turn soles and reinforce the stock with a textile fabric. The turn sole of the present invention being substantially uniform in thickness may be made from thin or poor stock not ordinarily available for use in turn soles and the sole brought to the necessary strength by a sheet of reinforcing fabric.

After the blank is molded and dried a sheet of sticky reinforcing fabric may be roughly applied to the face of the blank. The blank and sheet are then passed through a reinforcing machine suitably designed to preserve the molded shape of the sole. In its preferred form this machine is provided with sole supporting rolls 14,- and 15, a reinforcing or fabric setting roll 16, a fabric trimming knife 17, and a knife guard 18. The roll 15 is provided with suitable faces to engage the feather and the folded lip and also with a rounded face 19 coiiperating with the reinforcing roll to mold or bend the flap inward at an inclination to the surface of the sole. The reinforcing roll is shaped to set the fabric against the surface of the sole well down into the channel angle and up the inner face of the inwardly bent flap. The knife 17 cooperates with the edge 20 of the roll 15 to shear off the portion of the fabric extending above the upper edge of the flap. A toothed disk 21 may also be provided which acts as a fabric clearer.

The method of making the turn sole as described above is not claimed in this application, as it is being claimed in my divisional application, Serial No. 5 1,584, filed October 7, 1915.

While the various operations on the sole have been described as machine operations, as it is preferred to use machines, nevertheless, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that all of the steps described may be performed by hand, even to the application and trimming of the reinforcing fabric.

What is claimed as new is 1. A turn sole consisting of a body portion having a thin wedge-shaped lip cut therefrom which has a thickness substantially less than the depth of a regular shoulder and permanently molded over and set upon the between substance to build up a striking shoulder of regular depth, substantially as described.

2. A turn sole consisting of a body portion having a flap and a thin lip cut entirely from one face of the body portion, said flap and lip having a thickness substantially less than the depth of a regular shoulder, said lip being molded over and set upon the between substance at thebase of the flap to build up a striking shoulder of regular depth, substantially as described.

3. A turn sole consisting of a body por tion having a channel formed in one face and a parallel, marginal, solid shoulder outside of the channel formed by displacing material from the marginal portion of the sole, said shoulder having a depth substantially twice the depth of the material displaced from the marginal portion, and substantially the depth of a regular striking shoulder, substantially as described.

4:. A turn sole consisting of a body portion having a flap and a lip cut from one face of the body portion, said lip being folded over upon the between substance to form a substantial striking shoulder, and a sheet of reinforcing material secured to the lipped face of the body portion and to the inner surface of the flap, substantially as described.

5. turn sole consisting of a body portion having a channel, channel flap and an outer marginal, striklng shoulder on one face and a sheet of reinforcing material sesured to said face across the channel and to the inner surface of the flap, substantially as described.

6. A turn sole consisting of a body portion having a thin wedge-shaped lip having a thickness at its base substantially one-half the depth of a regular shoulder, which is formed by cutting downwardly and inavardly along a portion of the margin of said body portion and which is permanently molded upon the between substance to build up a striking shoulder of regular depth, substantially as described.

ALBERT E. JOHNSON.

Witnesses:

" EMILY M. NUNN,

WARREN G. OGDEN.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G. I v c 

